Brown Ale Basics, Champlain Valley Wines, and Morning Coffee with Kyle Mozden
Gary Monterosso makes the case for brown ale as a gentle entry point to darker beer and looks at when to drink coffee. Robin Shreeves talks with Kyle Mozden, director of winemaking at Rolling Hills Estate Winery, about cold-hardy grapes and building a new wine region in New York's Champlain Valley.
A Brown Ale Gateway to Dark Beer
Gary Monterosso opens the program with a case for brown ale, aimed at listeners who like the comfort of dark beer but are not ready for a porter or stout. He describes the flavors he has in mind: toasted bread, caramel, toffee, cocoa, and a gentle nuttiness, usually without the intense roast or coffee bitterness people expect from stout. The secret, he says, lies in the malt, which is toasted or kilned rather than heavily roasted, giving a deep amber-to-brown beer that often drinks smoothly with moderate alcohol. Monterosso points to English examples such as Newcastle Brown Ale and Samuel Smith's Nut Brown Ale, then to American versions like Bell's Best Brown Ale and Cigar City Maduro Brown Ale, which he says usually bring richer chocolate and a firmer finish. He suggests pairing brown ale with roasted chicken, barbecue, burgers, or sharp cheddar, and calls it the middle ground between amber ale and porter.
Cold-Hardy Grapes in the Champlain Valley
Robin Shreeves takes over from Gary Monterosso for a visit to Rolling Hills Estate Winery in New York's Champlain Valley, where she sits down with Kyle Mozden, the winery's director of winemaking. She asks what grapes he works with, and he lists Marquette, Frontenac, Petite Pearl, Frontenac gris, and La Crescent, plus Sabrevois, a variety Shreeves says she has seen in rosé but had never heard of before her visit. Mozden explains why the winery avoids the vinifera grapes familiar to Cabernet Sauvignon fans, saying they would not survive the region's winters, which can dip to twelve or thirteen degrees below zero and would likely kill vinifera vines in a single season. The crosses of American varieties, he says, were largely developed at the University of Minnesota, with one coming from Wisconsin, and they carry the cold hardiness needed for a northern climate. Mozden adds that the hardiness of these grapes is more indicative of the region in general.
From Napa Cabernet to a New Region
Shreeves asks what drew Kyle Mozden to leave Napa after more than twenty years, and Mozden, a self-described California kid, admits the region is very cold. He says the winery's vision is about growing the region rather than simply being a winery, and points to the Champlain Valley of New York, an appellation he calls very young, established in 2016. Mozden describes wanting to help build an identity for the area and to support its agricultural community, which he calls salt-of-the-earth people who work hard. After years of making big, fruity, high-alcohol Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, he says he felt he was making the same wine over and over, trying to make it bigger and bolder. Here, he says, the varietals carry no established style, so he is not copying anyone and gets to relearn how to grow grapes and make wine. Shreeves calls it the Wild East, and Mozden agrees.
Building a Region and a Winery Visit
Mozden says what excites him most is that the Champlain Valley has few wineries and no settled winemaking style, so the story has not yet been written. He compares the moment to Napa in the 1940s, when families were the pioneers defining a region, and says he gets to bring visitors along on the discovery. Asked what people find when they visit Rolling Hills, Mozden describes arriving in February to two feet of fresh snow, and the quiet of an undeveloped landscape which he says is shielded by the Adirondack Preserve, described as more than a million acres of forest. He was surprised to find a high-end winemaking facility with a bottling line, tanks, and barrels inside a building that looks like a small barn. Visitors who join the membership club can book a tour and tasting, and Mozden says he personally greets them and leads the tasting, a chance Robin Shreeves points out would cost a lot in Napa. Shreeves thanks Mozden and promotes her own Drink Local Substack newsletter.
Morning Coffee and the Timing Question
Gary Monterosso closes the program with coffee and asks when people drink it, from the morning commute to the first cup in bed. He cites a recent study of more than 40,000 adults that compared people who drank coffee mainly in the morning, those who drank it throughout the day, and non-coffee drinkers. Those who drank coffee between about 4:00 AM and noon were 31 percent less likely to die from cardiovascular disease and 16 percent less likely to die from any cause than non-drinkers. Monterosso stresses that coffee is not a miracle drink and that the researchers call for more studies. He explains possible reasons, including less interference with sleep than late-day caffeine and the stress hormone cortisol, which typically peaks soon after waking. For people who exercise in the morning, he suggests finishing a cup about 45 minutes to an hour before a workout, though he adds that caffeine metabolism varies from person to person.
Closing the Program
Monterosso closes the episode by pointing listeners to the show's social media channels, naming Facebook, LinkedIn, and Instagram, and to the website at beveragechronicles.com. He reminds the audience to follow along and thanks them for joining. He signs off with his usual send-off, telling listeners to take care and promising to see them next time. The program then ends with the outro theme music. Earlier, the announcer had described the show as a place where beer, wine, spirits, and everything in between get the spotlight, and the episode delivered that range in one short broadcast. Listeners heard a guide to brown ale, a visit to a New York winery, and a look at when to drink coffee. Monterosso's final words echo the same invitation to explore the pours behind the drinks people enjoy.
